Turn off the heat. A mordant is a fixative, often a powdered metal such as alum or iron, which enables dye to adhere to a material. Slowly heat the dye. These ancient methods have been passed on through generations and they are indigenous to nationalities and even closer related to tribal regions of West Africa. Let’s learn more. I like making blankets. Most cultures have their own recipes and techniques, often accompanied by spiritual rites, to create natural indigo dye. The blue jeans you are wearing today are likely colored using a synthetic dye, but that wasn’t always the case. Harvest the indigo and immediately strip the leaves from the stems and drop in a bucket of ice water. I say go for as long as you can.). The highest tank is where the fresh leaves are placed along with an enzyme called indimulsin, which breaks the indicant down into indoxyl and glucose. Step 2: Step 3: Step 4: Step 5: I always thought it would be fun to try making Vogue Patterns 8892 with naturally dyed wool. She offered me some Tephrosia rufula which she described as alternative indigo plant. This is one of the joys of working with Japanese indigo. For lightest colors, dip for a few minutes. indigo pigment from plants . Gathering plant material for dyeing: Blossoms should be in full bloom, berries ripe and nuts mature. Fill your stockpot with water. As the process takes place, it gives off carbon dioxide and the contents of the tank turn a dirty yellow. The birthplace of dye from indigo plants is India, where the dye paste is dried into cakes for ease of transportation and sale. Add your plant material to the pot. You might record the plant you used, which part(s) of the plant, you used for the dye, planting instructions, mordant and afterdip, type of fabric or yarn and where you sourced it, etc. fabric or yarn Leaves are ready to pick for use in the dye vat. If you’re planning a dye garden (i.e., selecting plants to use specifically for dyeing), keep an eye out for plants with tinctoria in the name (Latin for “color”). You can also dye with all kinds of other natural substances—tea, coffee, berries, bark, vegetables, and more. Different recipes may call for different techniques.). And I’m so pleased with how well it worked! In the Japanese tradition, plants are first harvested and dried . Hand wash items in a neutral soap and dry away from direct sunlight. The ancient practice of extracting indicant and converting it to indigo involves the fermentation of the leaves. The amount of mordant you add depends on you and your recipe. The leaves are then separated and composted for approximately 100 days, with frequent turning of the pile . Label your fabric-in-progress with mordant and a date. Eco-printing and natural dyeing by Louise Upshall. Botanical Colors © 2018. The resultant mix is allowed to ferment for a week or so to form a pigment called sukumo. Strain the dye by placing your mesh strainer over the bucket. Cold water Your email address will not be published. This is the darkest that the triangle got, plus some lighter, greener samples and an Indigofera Australis leaf. Many factors affect the final color of your dyed fabric or yarn, including the type of fiber you use, the type of plant, and the mordant. All Rights Reserved. And here are a few other samples. In 1883, Adolf von Baeyer (yes, the aspirin guy) began to investigate the chemical structure of indigo. This is a long story of how some towels turned into first a shawl and now maybe a dresser scarf. Isn’t it magic that these leaves can produce such a dark blue?! The leaves were looking so lush that I knew that I had to try dyeing with them soon. In this article, we would like to introduce you to the some of the traditional metho… The plants didn't seem to like the intense heat in the summer but have flourished in the autumn. After that, it becomes a death march. Can I ask how colour fast was the result? Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change, undyed organic cotton jersey from Alabama Chanin, The Handbook of Natural Plant Dyes by Sasha Duerr, Join Seamwork to Download the May, 2015 Issue. Indigo dye has been used for thousands of years by civilizations all over the world to dye fabric blue. The easiest way to do this is to start with about a cup of water, start the blender, and then add the leaves. Growing your own dyestuff is both rewarding and ecomonical. Non-natural dyeing is an easy choice. I have no idea whether it will work as it is not an indigofera and I can’t find any references to it containing indigo. Wool will also dye beautifully with fresh indigo leaves. The self-striping sock yarn looks like faux Fair Isle, don't you think? This was my first time trying shibori. Rinse in warm water. Pour the dye back into your stockpot. I usually throw it over my fence or the shower curtain rod. Remember, never gather more than 2/3 of a stand of anything in the wild when gathering plant stuff for dyeing. I’ve got a small bush growing but it is still too young for harvesting. About Indigo Plant Dye. Our thanks to John Marshall for this easy recipe on how to dye with fresh indigo! Stunning! You can also dye with herbs such as purple basil, which is sometimes tough to work with (you need a lot of it) but produces a pretty range of colors, from muted purple to pale pink to sage green. The chemical responsible for the dye is called indicant. One of the delights of growing your own Japanese indigo is making fresh indigo leaf baths and dipping for that beautiful and elusive slightly turquoise shade. The first round of fermentation takes around 14 hours, after which the liquid is drained into the second tank, a step down from the first. You can also look for lower-impact fabric or fibers, such as organic cotton jersey. Before you dye with any invasive species or other questionable plants, though, check with your local Department of Agriculture to see if there are any special rules for handling them. I salute your willingness to explore and expand our base of knowledge. I tend to pick fresh leaves and flowers in bloom, but you can also try using dried plants or roots if you’d like. Turn the heat off. Dye color may differ from the color of the plant it’s derived from. Powered by, From left, blossoms, leaves, stems, pods, seeds. Consider that because plants, fabric, and growing environments can change, you might not get an exact match every time.
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